It all starts in the centre, gathered around Piazza Madrice and the mother church. This is where the island meets: outdoor tables, the morning granita, the evening stroll. A few steps away, overlooking the harbour, stands Palazzo Florio, built in 1878 as the summer residence of the family that changed Favignana's destiny. Restored, it now houses the town offices, the library and the tourist office: worth a look for its neo-Gothic and Liberty architecture.
From the palazzo, a few minutes' walk leads to the former Florio Tuna Fishery, the museum that tells the story of the tuna and the men who fished it. More than anywhere else, it explains the island's soul — we devote a whole guide to it.