The Island · The Stone

The carved island:
Favignana's tufa

The open-air quarries, the pirriaturi quarrymen, the gardens born in the hollows of the rock: the story of the stone that built Favignana.

There is a paradox that tells Favignana's story better than any guidebook: its most striking places were not built. They were carved out.

What everyone on the island calls tufa is actually calcarenite: a pale sedimentary stone, compact yet easy to cut, deposited by the sea over millions of years. For centuries it was Favignana's raw material: its blocks built the houses of the town, the palazzi of Trapani and a good part of the North African coast.

The result is a landscape that exists nowhere else: vertical walls sculpted by pickaxe, squared geometries descending for dozens of metres, caves and galleries opening suddenly among the prickly pears. The quarries are not a fenced-off archaeological site: they are everywhere, woven into the island's beaches, gardens and homes.

The pirriaturi and the craft
of quarrying stone

Favignana's quarrymen were called pirriaturi, from the Sicilian pirrera, the quarry. They worked by hand, with picks and saws, following the rhythm of the stone: first the block's perimeter was cut, then it was detached from the rock bed, finally hoisted to the surface. Brutally hard work, handed down from father to son, that took years to learn.

Between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries Favignana's tufa became an industry: blocks left the port for Trapani, Palermo and above all for Tunisia and Libya, where the stone of the Egadi built entire neighbourhoods. The quarries sank ever deeper, creating the lunar landscape you can admire today at Cala Rossa and Bue Marino.

Then, after the war, cement made tufa uncompetitive and the quarries closed one after another. But the islanders did something unexpected: instead of abandoning those hollows, they inhabited them. In the disused quarries, sheltered from the wind and with a more humid microclimate, the sunken gardens were born: citrus groves, vegetable gardens and orchards planted below ground level, between walls of golden stone.

Where to see the tufa
with your own eyes

Cala Rossa

The stone cathedral by the sea

The island's most famous cove is itself a quarry: the squared walls framing the turquoise water are the result of centuries of extraction. The contrast between the geometry of the stone and the colour of the sea is the very symbol of Favignana.

Bue Marino

The lunar landscape

Quarrying continued here until the 1970s and the quarries can be seen at full scale: towers, pits and terraces of calcarenite plunging towards the sea. The best place to grasp the industrial dimension of tufa.

The sunken gardens

Life inside the quarry

In many of the town's disused quarries, citrus groves and gardens grow sheltered by the stone walls. Some, like the celebrated Giardino dell'Impossibile, can be visited: a labyrinth of green and rock unlike anywhere else in the world.

The houses of the town

Everyday tufa

Just walk through the centre and the stone is everywhere: in the walls of the houses, the doorways, the courtyards. Many homes have a quarry in the garden, converted into a cellar, a storeroom or a cool summer room.

In Favignana people did not build upon the land: they inhabited the hollow the stone left behind.

Our tip: explore the quarries by bicycle in the late afternoon, when the low light turns the stone to gold. Cala Rossa and Bue Marino are 15 minutes from town; for the sunken gardens it is worth booking the visit in advance. We will prepare a little itinerary for you when you arrive.

Sleep a stone's throw
from the golden quarries

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